Off-White is a company launched by an American, based in Milan, with fashion shows in Paris. Its presence everywhere and nowhere suited its founder, the late Virgil Abloh, known for being one of the most itinerant people in the industry.

This allowed his handpicked successor, Ib Kamara, to take the brand to New York Fashion Week this season, incredibly the brand’s first show in the United States.

“It feels like I’m coming home, both for Off-White and for myself,” Kamara said backstage. Kamara is also always on the move because of his work; he is also a busy stylist. The inspiration for the collection came from a trip he took to Ghana, the country where Abloh’s parents came from. “I just loved it, so I started the collection there,” Kamara said, “going to the market, collecting fabrics, working with local artisans, really capturing a lot of feelings. And I named the collection Duty Free: you came to New York, it’s young, sexy, and confident because you’re a global traveler.”

Kamara has a more natural approach to menswear, and his main idea was to add a zip panel to the hems of vests and jackets, as well as the front of pants. He appeared for the final thanks wearing a pair of jeans with this detail, the open panels looked like utility pockets with space for backstage tools.